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The Great Jawa Initiative 2018


BrieKalan2

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770111cfb0b8adcb8e793b778080af07.jpgcdaa95d3979bad97712a37f6590947de.jpgc92c1d8cdc33e9dd033b3ff59cee1e4c.jpg

Okay, I wasn’t quite sure on the hood. I followed a diagram from utinni builders on FB. But something doesn’t seem right. I think I need to make my hood bigger. Plus the boning I bought wasn’t strong enough too. What’s up with the two ties we put at the bottom? I added them, wrapped around my neck to the back and tied it up. Thanks for your help...


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Actually the boning seems to work pretty well, from the pictures.

You can use strong struff like wire or coax cable, but the thing about that is they've got sharper ends and no matter how you cushion them--eventually they poke through the fabric and will ruin the hood.  I used to use thick copper wire, and I can't tell you how many times my old hood was patched because of it!

I would indeed go bigger on the hood.  --its supposed to be somewhat loose and baggy so that it covers the back of the neck.

If you look at this pic of Todd in his new Jawa from the ACS walk, you can see how loose his is.

41149053944_3be71cde99.jpg31520311_10214334153581838_3416144312096784384_n by Lesley Farquhar, on Flickr

Also this is Wendy in hers:

41149053464_f0aa398f67.jpg31453983_560677017645600_427652530772639744_n by Lesley Farquhar, on Flickr

The ties are meant to pull the hood together in the front and then you let them drift down your back, like this CRL example--don't wind them around your neck.

http://databank.501st.com/databank/File:DZ_Jawa.png

 

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Looking good so far Ermer!  A couple of notes...  You are going to want to get the black fabric pulled tighter to the back.  Big wrinkles in the fabric don't look right.  The original masks were smooth and covered with gaffer's tape.

Love the orange of the eyes!  Might have to make a set with the Tamiya paint!  Am I seeing the white of  the base portions around the connection?  Those need to be blackened in if so.

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1 hour ago, PunkRocketScience said:

Looking good so far Ermer!  A couple of notes...  You are going to want to get the black fabric pulled tighter to the back.  Big wrinkles in the fabric don't look right.  The original masks were smooth and covered with gaffer's tape.

Love the orange of the eyes!  Might have to make a set with the Tamiya paint!  Am I seeing the white of  the base portions around the connection?  Those need to be blackened in if so.

DOH, I never even did that with the eyes (black bases).  Of course--mine likely had a lot of yellow overpaint/over spray so it wasn't noticed.  Good idea tho.

And yep--on the fabric, I put a series of darts in at the top of the mask, where it isn't seen and covered by the hood to tighten the fabric and sewed them down by hand.  

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3 minutes ago, DaygoErm said:

This is the diagram I followed. How much bigger is yours? 784b22cb79a344a41ecbe970e14183ca.jpg

 

I also added an extra strip from my tk to get the stiffness of the curve on the hood.

 

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I will measure mine tonight for you!  I have to pack for a troop tomorrow anyway.  :D

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Okay @DaygoErm

My hood--it was cut 20 inches wide, 40 inches long--the fabric folds to be a 20 x 20 square.  The seam goes down the back.  Because I have a fairly small noggin, I did shape mine a little so that its not so wide across the face, but kept the roominess in the back/sides.  So in comparing our measurements--my hood is about 4 inches deeper across the top, and about 3 inches in length from the top of the hood to the neck.

Like I said, I use the feather weight boning--and it keeps the round shape really well--I didn't pose that for the picture, its just the way the hood lays!

41835557012_34f3826e54.jpg31910663_10211820624736116_9056138594602713088_n by Lesley Farquhar, on Flickr

 

41877619851_e5b56fe10e_z.jpg31880661_10211820624816118_6676313480930263040_n by Lesley Farquhar, on Flickr

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So I was able to order boots from amazon. But at the same time picked up a pair of men’s uggs from offer up. I was planning to return the amazon order, but decided to check the difference. Over all, the amazon order was a lot more comfortable than the Ugg’s. See photos, and here’s the link again for the amazon one.

Here’s the link: https://amzn.to/2IessMG

ff0f6f1c742f2005ff0e40da93fe357b.jpg3f081c20e8d7ca59b0ca52684a0002b3.jpg2855bb86516a39312bbab98114ad0a35.jpg


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Looking good Ermer!  Gonna need to do something about the gap under the mask though...  That needs to be blacked out.

Yes I saw that. Going to wrap my neck with electric tape. LOL!


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  • 2 weeks later...

So if you wanna chitter and chirp like a jawa (or tusken, or really any character you want fun sound clips for), I recommend ordering those sound boards and buttons today or tomorrow, and it will show up on the premiere weekend.

I am off Sunday and Monday, and totally willing to help wire it all up, install sound, do any soldering (to add an on/off switch), and help trouble shoot if you order that stuff now. I would love to see our Jawas chittering like crazy, Tuskens yelling, etc. during LEGOLAND weekends.

 

Items you will need to order:

1 board; get this one with the terminal blocks. It's MUCH easier to fix if things go wrong than the solder board, and the price difference is negligible.

http://www.electronics123.com/shop/product/fn-bc04-tb-4-buttons-triggered-mp3-player-board-with-10w-amplifier-and-terminal-blocks-8267

4 buttons, these work fantastic.

http://www.electronics123.com/shop/product/push12w-momentary-push-switch-white-flat-rubber-button-with-12-inch-leads-8271

 

Switches can be purchased at Fry's if you want them, I have a small simple slider that locks nicely into position so it doesn't turn off on accident.  I have several extra 9 Volt battery connectors that I will donate to this cause, though if you want a fancier one there are several on electronics123 and inside Fry's or Willy's.

 

You'll want an aker speaker of some sort; I'm a fan of the 1506 since it's smaller, but the 1505 or similar work as well (these are also used for TKs and other costumes; so if you have armor with a speaker, you're already set. If not, you're prepared for when you make the jump). They run from 30-60 dollars and have a variety of extra features.

 

you will want a 3.5mm audio cable that's at least 3 feet long.

 

you will need a compression glove; I recommend going to CVS and trying a few on as you want the button on your index to sit in a specific spot, and a larger glove may give you more room while still fitting snug. Additionally CVS sells a lovely eye glass repair tool that runs about 3 dollars and looks like a star wars greeblie; it's perfect for remounting wires if they wiggle lose.

 

You'll want Velcro; I have been using the small stick on pieces for mine, has worked great so far. If I need to sew it later, I can.

 

I will take photos of everything later on tonight.

 

 

Edited by Mattchu
Forgot to add in parts.
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So if you wanna chitter and chirp like a jawa (or tusken, or really any character you want fun sound clips for), I recommend ordering those sound boards and buttons today or tomorrow, and it will show up on the premiere weekend.
I am off Sunday and Monday, and totally willing to help wire it all up, install sound, do any soldering (to add an on/off switch), and help trouble shoot if you order that stuff now. I would love to see our Jawas chittering like crazy, Tuskens yelling, etc. during LEGOLAND weekends.
 
Items you will need to order:
1 board; get this one with the terminal blocks. It's MUCH easier to fix if things go wrong than the solder board, and the price difference is negligible.
http://www.electronics123.com/shop/product/fn-bc04-tb-4-buttons-triggered-mp3-player-board-with-10w-amplifier-and-terminal-blocks-8267
4 buttons, these work fantastic.
http://www.electronics123.com/shop/product/push12w-momentary-push-switch-white-flat-rubber-button-with-12-inch-leads-8271
 
Switches can be purchased at Fry's if you want them, I have a small simple slider that locks nicely into position so it doesn't turn off on accident.  I have several extra 9 Volt battery connectors that I will donate to this cause, though if you want a fancier one there are several on electronics123 and inside Fry's or Willy's.
 
You'll want an aker speaker of some sort; I'm a fan of the 1506 since it's smaller, but the 1505 or similar work as well (these are also used for TKs and other costumes; so if you have armor with a speaker, you're already set. If not, you're prepared for when you make the jump). They run from 30-60 dollars and have a variety of extra features.
 
you will want a 3.5mm audio cable that's at least 3 feet long.
 
you will need a compression glove; I recommend going to CVS and trying a few on as you want the button on your index to sit in a specific spot, and a larger glove may give you more room while still fitting snug. Additionally CVS sells a lovely eye glass repair tool that runs about 3 dollars and looks like a star wars greeblie; it's perfect for remounting wires if they wiggle lose.
 
You'll want Velcro; I have been using the small stick on pieces for mine, has worked great so far. If I need to sew it later, I can.
 
I will take photos of everything later on tonight.
 
 

Awesome thanks!


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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
6 minutes ago, BrieKalan2 said:

We totally could!  

Friday is probably a good day for that, or Saturday, since Sunday is already "Troopers on Vacation"

hmmm... toss up.  Friday or Saturday.... Whatever the majority is... lets do it!

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  • 2 months later...

Giving this a big ol bump!  We have a lot of people who started on this project this year -- we're three months from the end of 2018.  Lets help you guys crank out those Jawas!!

I'll be at most AP's through the end of the year, and can help folks there who need it.

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On 9/7/2018 at 8:19 AM, BrieKalan2 said:

Giving this a big ol bump!  We have a lot of people who started on this project this year -- we're three months from the end of 2018.  Lets help you guys crank out those Jawas!!

I'll be at most AP's through the end of the year, and can help folks there who need it.

I have been stalking this thread. I do truly want to jam one out. I have no cosplay build plans from October to January- this build was my plan. 

Matt is working on his mando (our mandos...) so while he's working with syntra. I can focus on Jawa. Really interested. High 5s all around

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