Stutz

I'll be there, and can help make sure everything is OK for the pics.

I'll be there with food.

I'll be there.

You should reach out to Colleen Rodriguez (wyngdlyoncreations on Facebook or info@wyngdlyon.com). She is one of our members with a lot of experience with sewing and alterations. She does a lot of work for our members and might be able to help.

I'll be there. I'll bring a dessert.

I'll be there. I'll bring buffalo chicken mac & cheese.

I'll be attending in O’Side. Bringing donuts in the AM.

You can go ahead and weather it to final spec for submission, just keep in mind that the weathering on a HWT is MUCH lighter that a Sandtrooper. As long as you match the CRL for weathering, you'll be OK. The main issue I see is your legs. The added cover strips on the front of your thigh armor should match the width of the raised molded strips. Any extra panels necessary to modify for larger legs should be done on the back so they are not visible from the front. Best practice is to make your molded ridge and cover strips slightly wider than normal (normal is 20mm) to take up some of the space, then make your cover strips as wide as necessary to take make up the extra space in the back. While you're doing that, you might consider adding a bit of taper to the thighs (and calves) as well. cover_strips.pdf

The Blaster you linked to is a DLT-19D, not a DLT-19. Heavy weapons troopers carry DLT-19s. DLT-19Ds are carried by Death Troopers. So for your current costume, the blaster you linked to is NOT approvable. You MIGHT be able to modify a DLT-19D into a standard DLT-19, but I wouldn't be able to tell without really digging into the details of the 3D printed kit. Feel free to reach out to me directly if you have any questions. For reference: Heavy weapon trooper CRL: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_hwt DLT-19 (Wookieepedia): https://starwars.fandom.com/wiki/DLT-19_heavy_blaster_rifle Deathtrooper CRL: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_deathtrooper DLT-19D (Wookieepedia): https://starwars.fandom.com/wiki/DLT-19D_heavy_blaster_rifle

Looking good! A couple things to keep in mind with 3D printed armor. • PLA will get soft and deform in the sun, so you will want to use something that will hold up better like ABS or PETG. • There cannot be ANY print lines visible, so that means a LOT of sanding and finishing. • There are a lot of 3D models that aren't approvable, or need modification before they are. Make a WIP post on https://www.501stpathfinders.com and get some guidance there before you go too far. Good luck!

*** Updates to TIE Pilot CRL *** An updated CRL has been posted for the Original Trilogy TIE Pilot costume. If you currently have a TIE Pilot costume IN PROGRESS, send me a photo and that will buy you a 6 month grace period to complete your costume where you can follow the old CRL. Please let me know if you have any questions. This only applies to NEW approvals. Existing approved TIE costumes do NOT have to be updated to match the new CRL. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TI_TIE_Pilot_ANH Some changes may require reworking by makers and sellers here. Special attention to helmet cogs MUST be silver now. White cogs no longer accepted. Here’s a basic break down of changes: Main Difference: ANH now Original Trilogy Version One ROTJ Now Original Trilogy Version Two Changes for basic approval: Silver helmet cogs only Chest box pinstripes now 1/16” white around tiles, ⅛ silver bottom stripe No more red tile Commpad now matches screen used in layout and coloring Higher level changes: Flat flightsuit pockets on Version Two Trident clip ear disc can be used on Version One Capped screws on armor octagons.

Pretty much. Internal strapping/structure is not reviewed for approval. Only things that are visible. With that said, there are certainly tried-and-true methods that we use that hold up over time. Unfortunately, you are building a less-common costume, so there is not a lot of expertise for Revan on these boards. I know you are on the forums over at Flagship Eclipse, so I would continue to use the resources there.

Typically it goes under the chest plate. On a TIE, parts can also be integrated into the chest box.

Good luck selling your armor Mike! Just to be fair, I want to add this reminder to any troopers considering this that the FX helmet is no longer approvable for membership. A new helmet can be purchased to go with the rest of the armor, but the plastic color has to be a reasonable match to the armor.

Link is broken, so I can't see the photo. All weapons/props are reviewed for accuracy just like costumes, so if you are planning any modifications, make sure they don't stray too far from screen accuracy. Feel free to run any planned modifications by me prior to doing them. gml.imperialsands@gmail.com

Hey Josh. The Imperial Surplus kits are top notch, so great choice there. You should have no reservations at all about the quality of that kit, so purchasing should be a no-brainer, as long as you're sure that's the direction you want to go. The only thing I would consider before purchasing is that the kit is ideally suited for someone around 5'10" and maybe 180-ish. It still has a lot of flexibility, but the further you get from that ideal, the more modifications may be necessary. Also, that kit does require a fair amount of bondo/seam filling/sanding work to get it approvable. Nothing especially difficult. Just time consuming. Other than that, just be aware that you will still have to purchase accessories to get the full costume approvable: undersuit, gloves, neck seal, boots, blaster (optional), and voice amp (also optional). If you decide you want a blaster, hit me up and I'll give you a good deal on an animated DC-15S. Good luck!

The originals were bumpy. Some people like the "bumpy cap", which is more accurate to the original. Some people prefer the "smooth cap", which is more "idealized accuracy", i.e. what it would have looked like if the film had a bigger budget :-) No issues with approval for either approach. It is just a personal preferance.

Welcome, and good luck with your build! Make sure you make the drop boxes and the holster detachable on your TK if you want to switch between costumes, as the HWT does not have them.

General rule of thumb is to start with the easier parts first to get a feel for things. Forearms and biceps are what I always recommend.

The Stunt version is by far the more popular of the two in the Legion. There are currently 4,072 Stunt costumes in the Legion, and only 292 Hero costumes.

Yes! Table/chairs are appropriate. You can bring a pop-up shelter too if you want guaranteed shade.

"Armor Party" is just the name. You are free to work on any part of your costume, or none at all. Feel free to come and just hang out, socialize, ask questions, or see what other people are working on.

Creating the kind of armor you are looking for from scratch via sculpting and vac-forming is expensive, difficult and time consuming. Finding actual step-by-step instructions would be tough, as it is sort of a niche skill, and almost no one makes their armor from scratch. My advice is to start with a base amor kit from a vetted supplier, and use your DIY skills for easier to tackle items, like props or soft parts. Another path is to build a custom Mando using sheets of sintra, which can be heat shaped by hand. But If you are really committed to doing it, the best thing to do is research sculpting and vac-forming in general. You could also reach out to other armor makers for advice. You can find them through the Detachments, or builders groups on Facebook. It is absolutely fine to show up without an armor kit. It will give you a chance to meet some other troopers, ask lots of questions and get a feel for the type of project you want to tackle first. Hope you can make it!

Welcome Josh! The vast majority of our armor kits are vac formed ABS plastic. You purchase a kit, then assemble it much like a plastic model kit, trimming, sizing, and gluing it to fit your body. Each costume type has a Detachment. Detachments are websites for members or potential members looking to build that particular costume. It’s there you can find out where to buy kits and parts, and everything you need to know about how to assemble the costume. Here is a list of all the detachments. http://www.501st.com/members/displayUnits.php#detachments The detachment should be your first stop, and you will spend a lot of time there researching your costume. You should not make any purchases without getting the OK from the detachment to make sure it is acceptable for membership. Many items can be purchased directly from the “For Sale” section on the detachment website. Once you get started on your costume build, you should start a WIP (Work in Progress) thread on the detachment forum. As you post your progress, the members will help steer you in the right direction. We also have a Cadet program where we can pair you up with an experienced trooper from our Garrison. They can act as your mentor and help you navigate the process of becoming a member. Feel free to reach out to @Bizarro if you are interested. Our next armor party is on March 22 in Linda Vista. Hope you can make it! http://imperialsandsgarrison.com/forums/index.php?/topic/2857-sd-2020-03-22-sun-all-club-armor-party/

The gears on the sides of the boxes should be painted the same color gray as the rocker switches, so getting them made in aluminum doesn't make much sense. Plastic is the way to go. All kits I am aware of come that way. And drilling holes in the gears would not be approvable.