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ANOVOS Classic TK Builder's Resource


Stutz

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I started this thread for folks who are building the ANOVOS armor, and to continue the conversation from the Facebook event thread. It contains details and links covering most of what I went over in the tutorial on Feb 6. Feel free to use this forum to ask questions, post your progress, or connect with members or each other for assistance. I'll add to this as time goes on. Feel free to ask questions
 
*****IMPORTANT*****
Shins may be mislabeled from ANONVOS. See here for more detail:
*************************
 
Step by Step Build
A great build tutorial by one of our troopers over at FISD. He is going for uber-accuracy, using the assembly methods they used on the original suits. This is not required, but is a good build tutorial even for beginners. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/page-1
 
Video Tutorials
 
ANOVOS Classic Stormtrooper FAQs (ANOVOS)
One thing a lot of people missed here is that the armor only comes in one size. The only thing that is sized is the under suit and gloves.
 
Stormtrooper ANH Helmet FAQ (Understanding the Asymmetry)
 
FISD Stormtrooper Detachment
This is the best source for EVERYTHING related to your build. The Search bar will get you pretty much anything you need to know. If you want a lot of step-by-step input, you can create a build thread and get input from 501st members every step of the way.
 
Helmet & Ab Button Paint Reference Guide
Note, don’t use the “Midnight Blue” or “Blue Angel Blue”, as those were the older standards.
 
501st CRL Standards for ANH Stunt
Here’s an alphabetical list if you’re doing a different trooper:
 
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Boots
Funtasma Boots (fake leather, and only good for basic approval) - http://www.amazon.com/Funtasma-Mens-Trooper-12-Combat-Boot/dp/B00NXY3HTG
Black Chelsea Boots - Can purchase standard black chelsea boots and paint them white as a last resort (or if you want to be uber-accurate).
 
Helmet Audio & FX
Voice Booster (Aker 10watt) - http://store.voicebooster.com/
Here is a link to the custom enclosure I built for my ROM/FX: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/13909-romfx-enclosure-mod/
Voice amp is purely optional, and some people skip it all together.
 
Gloves
Black nomex flight gloves. Any brand will do. Readily available on Amazon or eBay.
If going for Centurion, you can use the black rubber gloves that will come with the ANOVOS kit.
 
Belt
The belt that comes with the ANOVOS kit is VERY flimsy canvas and has too many holster holes, so if you decide to use it, you MUST cover the two top holster holes so they are no longer visible. You would also have to reinforce the canvas in some way to make it stiffer, as it is too thin to hold the holster in place, and the rivets tend to pull through the canvas. The other option is to make a new belt, or purchase one. TKittell on FISD makes very good belts. Either way, if you make a new belt, you will need to re-use the plastic insert that is attached to the ANOVOS belt.
 
Undersuit
You should all be getting one from ANOVOS. In case that one doesn't work for some reason, just look for any 2-piece compression gear that is all black with no visible logos or colored seams.
 
Suspenders
If you are using the suspender strapping method.
Cut off the metal clips and add snaps. It’s best to keep them adjustable. You’ll just need to add a slide or a loop, then add an extra piece of webbing with a snap.
 
Thigh Support Belt
Belt Any sort of black web belt. 1” to 2” in width is fine. Honestly, just about any belt will work, but the thicker the better. Thin belts can bunch, sag and roll. I personally use a 2" web pistol belt and it works great.
 
Foam Armor Padding
You might need foam in some of the armor parts to keep thing aligned or from moving around. Just about any type works. I use self-adhesive weathering stripping that works fine. Try to stick with white or black if there is a chance it will be seen.
 
Velcro
Always use industrial strength velcro. The adhesive will give out to the standard stuff.
 
Helmet Pads
Replace the plastic headliner with a set of military helmet pads, or some other type of padding:
 
Helmet Fan
I use 5V Blower fans. They are nice and quiet, and move a fair amount of air. I find that one blower mounted in the front of the helmet works fine. I mount mine with velcro.
Use them with a 3AAA switched battery pack like this:
These links order from China, which take a couple weeks.
 
Armor Storage/Transportation
Most troopers use the 50 gallon Stanley or Husky rolling job box.
 
 
-------------------
 
Adhesives
E6000 (recommended) - Contact cement, very forgiving, can be removed, 24 hour cure time. This is a contact cement, so follow the instructions closely. Please note that there are certain online sellers (including Europe) that are selling FAKE E-6000.  The genuine product is clearly marked Made in the USA, and has a batch number on each tube.  They do not sell to distributors in China or Hong Kong, so if you order from a seller there, it is probably not the real stuff. If you have any doubts, you can contact the manufacturer at www.eclecticproducts.com, and they will let you know where to get it. The fake stuff is garbage.
Zap-a-gap - CA Glue, permanent, almost zero working/cure time, unforgiving.
ABS Cement - Melts the plastic together. The ANOVOS kit is too thin for this type of adhesive, so I don’t recommend using it.
 
Tools
I’ll only cover the specialty tools here. Assume you will also need standards tools like hammers, pliers, and screwdrivers.
Dremel or other rotary tool -  A "must have”.  Get the sanding drum attachments. Some people like using the diamond saw for cutting, but I find it hard to control. I also highly recommend getting the flex shaft attachment.
Lexan Scissors - Curved and straight, for cutting ABS. Get both. http://www.amazon.com/Integy-Hobby-C23053-Curved-Scissor/dp/B00QYZOS7G
Ruler/Straight Edge - For score and snap method.
X-acto/utility Knives - Plus extra blades
Clamps - Various sizes for clamping plastic while adhesive cures
Fabric Sewing Tape Measure - Useful for taking measurements when sizing armor.
Heat sealing iron - For making return edges. There are some tutorials on this on FISD. Practice on scrap first. Always use with the fabric sock or the iron will melt to the plastic. http://www.amazon.com/Hangar-9-Sealing-Iron-HAN101/dp/B0006N6Y0Q
Heat Gun - For reshaping your plastic armor. Test on scrap first to get a feel for it. Plastic will warp/melt when overheated, and there is no way to get it back. Build up small amounts of heat over time. Don;t get the gun too close. A hair dryer will work in a pinch. TEST FIRST ON SCRAP! http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0503008-HT1000-200-watt-Heat/dp/B00004TUCV
Needle Files - Useful for fixing the eyes and teeth of the bucket. http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6655-Needle-File-10-Piece/dp/B000NPUKYS
Small Paint Brushes - For painting the ab buttons or helmet details.
 
Repairs
ABS Sludge - Melt small ABS plastic bits with acetone in a glass jar to make a thick sludge you can use for small repairs. Sand and polish when done. Test on a scrap piece first until you are comfortable with using it.
Novus Polish - Three grits. Good for removing scratches and smoothing repairs. http://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU
 
Safety
Eye protection - Always use safety glasses when using the Dremel
Respirator - ABS will give off fumes when heated or sanded, and E6000 fumes can’t be good for you either. Use a respirator with the correct filter. A dust mask won’t protect against chemical fumes.
Cut Proof Gloves - If you are prone to cutting yourself, these can be helpful. http://www.amazon.com/NoCry-Cut-Resistant-Gloves-Performance/dp/B00IVM1TKO 
 
Supplies
Blue painters tape - Great for taping parts together for test fitting. Also good to hold parts from shifting during the clamping process. E6000 takes a while to set, and parts can slide while they are clamped.
Rare Earth Magnets - For clamping areas that can’t be reached with regular clamps
Line 24 Snaps - If you are doing the snap plate method (recommended), you should get a 50 pack.
Snap setting tools - These range from very cheap to very expensive. Cheapest route is setter and anvil.
Straps/Elastic/Buckets/Strap Hardware - strapworks.com
Sandpaper - Various grits. For finishing of cut edges and roughing up plastic for gluing.
Sanding blocks, belt sander - Useful for smoothing out parts that should be straight. Can glue piece of sandpaper to scrap boards.
Plastic cutting scraps - Keep this for making ABS sludge, doing repairs, etc. It is color matched to your kit.
Extra ABS - For making snap plates or shims.
 
—————
 
Return Edges
Return edges are generally desirable, as it gives the armor the appearance of thickness. All return edges average 1/4 inch(6 mm) but can be up to but not much more than 3/8 inch (9 ish mm). In some places, it should be removed all together, and in some instances can be reduced for comfort.
Chest: bottom edge against ab. Sides but taper down as you get closer to shoulders. Minimal to none around neck.
Back: bottom against kidney. Sides but taper down as you get closer to shoulders. Minimal around neck.
Kidney: top, bottom and slight in kidney notch. None on sides.
Butt: all sides
Ab: top under chest, lesser return edge around cod area. None on sides
Shoulders: none on edge against chest. Return edge against arm.
Biceps: minimal to none. Some leave return edge some remove it all together.
Forearms: none at wrist opening even up into the square indent ridge. Minimal to none at elbow side. Your choice
Thighs: return edge on tops and bottom.
Shins: return edge on top. None against boots.
 
For Shorter Troopers
Shorter troopers, trimming the following areas is most common however, you can only take off so much before it's no longer 501st acceptable. Do so with care:
Forearms - upper or lower sections
Biceps - upper or lower sections
Thighs - upper section, besides cutting behind the knees
Shins - lower section, besides cutting behind the knees
Ab - upper return edge section
Chest - lower return edge section
Back - lower return edge section
Kidney - upper and lower return edge section
Posterior - upper return edge section
 
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Thanks Dean,

I'm about 15hrs into my build. Got my kit all rough trimmed and I'm sizing the arms and legs now. I got to use the heat gun to reshape the arms and the legs; it's a bit scary at first.

I've looked through countless builds in FISD but I haven't seen anyone with suspenders yet, any handy resources for how your armor is assembled?

Gluing up arms and legs this weekend if I have the time, looks like I'll have to resew my neck seal as it is way too big. I'll get up e guts to tackle the belt once I get the gluing started...

Jef

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15 minutes ago, Jef said:

Thanks Dean,

I'm about 15hrs into my build. Got my kit all rough trimmed and I'm sizing the arms and legs now. I got to use the heat gun to reshape the arms and the legs; it's a bit scary at first.

I've looked through countless builds in FISD but I haven't seen anyone with suspenders yet, any handy resources for how your armor is assembled?

Gluing up arms and legs this weekend if I have the time, looks like I'll have to resew my neck seal as it is way too big. I'll get up e guts to tackle the belt once I get the gluing started...

Jef

Here's a thread about who uses suspenders and the pros and cons. Good reading for starters, and some of the pro-suspender people might have build threads up.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35272-suspenders-out-of-fashion

I'll put together a graphic detailing the suspender method and post it up if I can't find a good build example.

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Not sure if anyone else recently experienced this, but using E6000 saved my butt tonight.

Sized and glued up the biceps last night and today noticed I was lopsided and my left bicep was sized too long. E6000 comes off relatively easily and is really easy to clean up. So thanks again, Dean.

BTW, I have so much extra ABS leftover from trimming that I have plenty enough leftover to make snap plates and inside covers, too!

Jef

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Glad you were able to fix it, Jef. I use E6000 (E6K as some call it) for almost all of my costuming needs. It's plenty strong enough for me. The extra time to set up is good because it makes me slow down and think about what I'm going to do next. I just replaced some old ill-fitting ABS snap plates on my shoulders with nylon-web snap plates and E6K last night.

I also created my own design of nylon webing straps and E6K that pull my kidney plate towards my ab plate (because i have a bit of a belly and otherwise it would push out at an odd angle. 2015-02-21%2011.34.00.jpg

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A couple armor parties coming up for those interested:

March 20 at Lesley's House
What: Armor Party/ Death Star Wall Building Day 3
Where: Lesley's house in Lakeside (10002 Vista Parque, Lakeside CA 92040)
When: March 20! 10am to 5pm when the sun goes down.  Garrison meeting and food after we clean up from the build!
---------------------------------------
April 10 at Mission Bay High School:
OK, one last comment in this group at the request of the CO. We are having a big armor party at Mission Bay High School on Sunday, April 10. Here are the details:

Event Title: OPEN ARMOR BUILD DAY @ Mission Bay High School
Date: Sunday April 10th
Call time: 10am
Duration of event: 10-4pm
Address: 2475 Grand Ave, San Diego (Pacific Beach). 92109

Cut off for date for requesting participation: 04/5/2016

What we'll be doing / Why we are there: We are having the largest armor party possible to help everyone get their costumes ready for SDCC, Legoland and all other upcoming troops! This is a perfect place to work on the Anovos armor projects as well, and take submission pictures!

MBHS (Where my son goes), has a huge open area called “The weed patchâ€, that is open and surrounded by tables and benches. This is the place the school will allow us to use. We can bring our own tables, chairs, popups etc

Power from the school

Parking onsite on LEE Street (Huge gated lot)

The school is graciously providing us this space free of charge, the principal knows Lesley, Paul and their family quite well and we’ve trooped with the school district before over the years. The only condition is that we MUST clean up after ourselves, and no alcohol.

FOOD is potluck! Bring a dish or two to pass!
Coolers of ice and soda/water/gatorade welcome!

Remember your tables, chairs, popups, tools, kits and sunscreen!

Lets make the most of this awesome space!

We will have many senior members of the garrison there to help with the builds and be building ourselves!

 
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  • 3 weeks later...

Do I need to RSVP to this?

March 20 at Lesley's House
 

I need some help getting the fit of my calves correct, it's the last part I need to assemble before getting the strapping together...

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1 minute ago, Jef said:

Do I need to RSVP to this?

March 20 at Lesley's House
 

I need some help getting the fit of my calves correct, it's the last part I need to assemble before getting the strapping together...

Nope. Just show up!

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Dean

Do you have a link for a TK chatter loop?

Thanks!

Joe

TK-10287

Hey Joe, we're not allowed to repost the links but if you go to the 501st forums and search the General Discussion forum you'll see "501st Legion Costume Loops and Soundscapes" topic. That's the one you want.

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