Stutz

Thinner should remove it. Don't paint over it in white. Just be patient and remove the paint. And for ANH Stunt, the paint can't touch the lips, so only paint the teeth. Here is an example of what it should look like. You'll notice there is no paint above or below the holes. This is a requirement for approval. And again, for the teeth there is really no need for masking. It's a small, irregularly shaped area, so free-handing with a brush should be fine.

In general, use blue painters tape for masking, but since the paint doesn't leave the teeth area on the ANH stunt, masking isn't really required.

Message sent with detailed instructions for submitting your costume for approval.

Just a heads up. In this hobby, there are plenty of unscrupulous folks looking to scam people. Best to do the research BEFORE you send the money.

SLD are the experts. If they say the list is good, you should rest easy. I see no red flags.

Hi Erik, The Sith Lord forums are the best place to post your WIP in order to ensure it meets the quality standards for the Legion. Posting it here on the Garrison forums is a good way to get to know your fellow troopers, and for us to get to know you.

Welcome David, Just for clarity, are you just requesting access to the ISG forums, or are you requesting to transfer garrisons? You are currently a member of the SCG. If you want to transfer to the ISG, you will need to ask your GML to do that for you.

If that's Jim's armor, here's a good link to get you started. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35944-review-of-jimmiroquai-fotk-armor/

Nope. Just show up!

PM sent with submission instructions.

Hey Richard. FYI, that helmet (Hasbro Black Series) will need some significant modifications prior to approval (seams filled, speaker grill holes filled, lens replaced or covered, repainting), and that belt/buckle is not acceptable for membership. Please reach out to me at gml.imperialsands@gmail.com and I can give you some guidance. Thanks. --Dean

March 20. Thanks for catching that. Dates fixed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A couple armor parties coming up for those interested: March 20 at Lesley's House What: Armor Party/ Death Star Wall Building Day 3 Where: Lesley's house in Lakeside (10002 Vista Parque, Lakeside CA 92040) When: March 20! 10am to 5pm when the sun goes down. Garrison meeting and food after we clean up from the build! --------------------------------------- April 10 at Mission Bay High School: OK, one last comment in this group at the request of the CO. We are having a big armor party at Mission Bay High School on Sunday, April 10. Here are the details: Event Title: OPEN ARMOR BUILD DAY @ Mission Bay High School Date: Sunday April 10th Call time: 10am Duration of event: 10-4pm Address: 2475 Grand Ave, San Diego (Pacific Beach). 92109 Cut off for date for requesting participation: 04/5/2016 What we'll be doing / Why we are there: We are having the largest armor party possible to help everyone get their costumes ready for SDCC, Legoland and all other upcoming troops! This is a perfect place to work on the Anovos armor projects as well, and take submission pictures! MBHS (Where my son goes), has a huge open area called “The weed patchâ€, that is open and surrounded by tables and benches. This is the place the school will allow us to use. We can bring our own tables, chairs, popups etc Power from the school Parking onsite on LEE Street (Huge gated lot) The school is graciously providing us this space free of charge, the principal knows Lesley, Paul and their family quite well and we’ve trooped with the school district before over the years. The only condition is that we MUST clean up after ourselves, and no alcohol. FOOD is potluck! Bring a dish or two to pass! Coolers of ice and soda/water/gatorade welcome! Remember your tables, chairs, popups, tools, kits and sunscreen! Lets make the most of this awesome space! We will have many senior members of the garrison there to help with the builds and be building ourselves!

A little hard to tell with the camera foreshortening, but it does look a bit large at the wrist. You've removed all the return edges, which is good. It's nothing that would hold up approval though. So if you don't feel you can go smaller and still get your hand through, then don't. You can always check your build against the ANOVOS pics. They did a god job of sizing their kit to their model. http://www.anovos.com/products/star-wars-classic-trilogy-imperial-stormtrooper-pre-order

Hi Shane. Your application is currently in review. I would wait for my response before making any additional changes to your costume. My response will give you detailed information on what needs to be modified to meet basic approval, and resources to help make that happen. Just be patient, and know that things are progressing :-) In the meantime, let me know if you have any questions.

Here's a thread about who uses suspenders and the pros and cons. Good reading for starters, and some of the pro-suspender people might have build threads up. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35272-suspenders-out-of-fashion I'll put together a graphic detailing the suspender method and post it up if I can't find a good build example.

I started this thread for folks who are building the ANOVOS armor, and to continue the conversation from the Facebook event thread. It contains details and links covering most of what I went over in the tutorial on Feb 6. Feel free to use this forum to ask questions, post your progress, or connect with members or each other for assistance. I'll add to this as time goes on. Feel free to ask questions *****IMPORTANT***** Shins may be mislabeled from ANONVOS. See here for more detail: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/page-26 ************************* Step by Step Build A great build tutorial by one of our troopers over at FISD. He is going for uber-accuracy, using the assembly methods they used on the original suits. This is not required, but is a good build tutorial even for beginners. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/page-1 Video Tutorials Excellent video series by TK1636. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLP1ZIMrRnbqMJewwdCbPNr-xrmgdLz7-D ANOVOS Classic Stormtrooper FAQs (ANOVOS) One thing a lot of people missed here is that the armor only comes in one size. The only thing that is sized is the under suit and gloves. http://www.anovos.com/pages/classic-stormtrooper-faqs Stormtrooper ANH Helmet FAQ (Understanding the Asymmetry) http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-ANH-Stunt-Stormtrooper-armor-helmets.htm FISD Stormtrooper Detachment This is the best source for EVERYTHING related to your build. The Search bar will get you pretty much anything you need to know. If you want a lot of step-by-step input, you can create a build thread and get input from 501st members every step of the way. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/ Helmet & Ab Button Paint Reference Guide Note, don’t use the “Midnight Blue” or “Blue Angel Blue”, as those were the older standards. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/23-helmet-ab-button-paint-reference-guide/ 501st CRL Standards for ANH Stunt http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt Here’s an alphabetical list if you’re doing a different trooper: http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:CRLbyname ------------- Boots TKBoots - http://www.tkboots.com/index.htm Imperial Boots - http://www.imperialboots.com/product/421/ Funtasma Boots (fake leather, and only good for basic approval) - http://www.amazon.com/Funtasma-Mens-Trooper-12-Combat-Boot/dp/B00NXY3HTG Black Chelsea Boots - Can purchase standard black chelsea boots and paint them white as a last resort (or if you want to be uber-accurate). Helmet Audio & FX Voice Booster (Aker 10watt) - http://store.voicebooster.com/ iCOMM - http://store.voicebooster.com/icomm-imperial-communication-system/ ROMFX - http://www.romfx.com/ Here is a link to the custom enclosure I built for my ROM/FX: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/13909-romfx-enclosure-mod/ Voice amp is purely optional, and some people skip it all together. Gloves Black nomex flight gloves. Any brand will do. Readily available on Amazon or eBay. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=nomex+flight+gloves If going for Centurion, you can use the black rubber gloves that will come with the ANOVOS kit. Belt The belt that comes with the ANOVOS kit is VERY flimsy canvas and has too many holster holes, so if you decide to use it, you MUST cover the two top holster holes so they are no longer visible. You would also have to reinforce the canvas in some way to make it stiffer, as it is too thin to hold the holster in place, and the rivets tend to pull through the canvas. The other option is to make a new belt, or purchase one. TKittell on FISD makes very good belts. Either way, if you make a new belt, you will need to re-use the plastic insert that is attached to the ANOVOS belt. TKittlell Belt - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19803-fs-white-canvas-belts/page-1 TrooperBay Belt - https://trooperbay.com/trooper-white-canvas-belts.html Undersuit You should all be getting one from ANOVOS. In case that one doesn't work for some reason, just look for any 2-piece compression gear that is all black with no visible logos or colored seams. Suspenders If you are using the suspender strapping method. Black construction type. http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=50930-1492-1L-611-BK&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=1091497&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1 Cut off the metal clips and add snaps. It’s best to keep them adjustable. You’ll just need to add a slide or a loop, then add an extra piece of webbing with a snap. http://www.strapworks.com/Plastic_Slides_p/ps.htmhttp://www.strapworks.com/Plastic_Loops_p/pl.htm Thigh Support Belt Belt Any sort of black web belt. 1” to 2” in width is fine. Honestly, just about any belt will work, but the thicker the better. Thin belts can bunch, sag and roll. I personally use a 2" web pistol belt and it works great. http://www.strapworks.com/Side_Release_Buckle_Belts_p/srbb112n.htm Foam Armor Padding You might need foam in some of the armor parts to keep thing aligned or from moving around. Just about any type works. I use self-adhesive weathering stripping that works fine. Try to stick with white or black if there is a chance it will be seen. Velcro Always use industrial strength velcro. The adhesive will give out to the standard stuff. http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Industrial-Strength-Wide-Black/dp/B00006RSP1 Helmet Pads Replace the plastic headliner with a set of military helmet pads, or some other type of padding: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONDOR-221055-Molded-Contour-Helmet-Attachment-Pads-PASGT-ACH-MICH-BLACK-/252258131429?hash=item3abbc19de5:g:e0AAAOSwyQtVgzRZ Helmet Fan I use 5V Blower fans. They are nice and quiet, and move a fair amount of air. I find that one blower mounted in the front of the helmet works fine. I mount mine with velcro. http://www.ebay.com/itm/150943511038?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Use them with a 3AAA switched battery pack like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/HBDC-2Pcs-Enclosure-battery-box-holder-3-x-AAA-new-/281931947768 These links order from China, which take a couple weeks. Armor Storage/Transportation Most troopers use the 50 gallon Stanley or Husky rolling job box. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-37-in-Mobile-Job-Box-209261/203668066 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-37-in-Mobile-Job-Box-037025H/202300294 ------------------- Adhesives E6000 (recommended) - Contact cement, very forgiving, can be removed, 24 hour cure time. This is a contact cement, so follow the instructions closely. Please note that there are certain online sellers (including Europe) that are selling FAKE E-6000. The genuine product is clearly marked Made in the USA, and has a batch number on each tube. They do not sell to distributors in China or Hong Kong, so if you order from a seller there, it is probably not the real stuff. If you have any doubts, you can contact the manufacturer at www.eclecticproducts.com, and they will let you know where to get it. The fake stuff is garbage. Zap-a-gap - CA Glue, permanent, almost zero working/cure time, unforgiving. ABS Cement - Melts the plastic together. The ANOVOS kit is too thin for this type of adhesive, so I don’t recommend using it. Tools I’ll only cover the specialty tools here. Assume you will also need standards tools like hammers, pliers, and screwdrivers. Dremel or other rotary tool - A "must have”. Get the sanding drum attachments. Some people like using the diamond saw for cutting, but I find it hard to control. I also highly recommend getting the flex shaft attachment. Lexan Scissors - Curved and straight, for cutting ABS. Get both. http://www.amazon.com/Integy-Hobby-C23053-Curved-Scissor/dp/B00QYZOS7G Ruler/Straight Edge - For score and snap method. X-acto/utility Knives - Plus extra blades Clamps - Various sizes for clamping plastic while adhesive cures Fabric Sewing Tape Measure - Useful for taking measurements when sizing armor. Heat sealing iron - For making return edges. There are some tutorials on this on FISD. Practice on scrap first. Always use with the fabric sock or the iron will melt to the plastic. http://www.amazon.com/Hangar-9-Sealing-Iron-HAN101/dp/B0006N6Y0Q Heat Gun - For reshaping your plastic armor. Test on scrap first to get a feel for it. Plastic will warp/melt when overheated, and there is no way to get it back. Build up small amounts of heat over time. Don;t get the gun too close. A hair dryer will work in a pinch. TEST FIRST ON SCRAP! http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0503008-HT1000-200-watt-Heat/dp/B00004TUCV Needle Files - Useful for fixing the eyes and teeth of the bucket. http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6655-Needle-File-10-Piece/dp/B000NPUKYS Small Paint Brushes - For painting the ab buttons or helmet details. Repairs ABS Sludge - Melt small ABS plastic bits with acetone in a glass jar to make a thick sludge you can use for small repairs. Sand and polish when done. Test on a scrap piece first until you are comfortable with using it. Novus Polish - Three grits. Good for removing scratches and smoothing repairs. http://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU Safety Eye protection - Always use safety glasses when using the Dremel Respirator - ABS will give off fumes when heated or sanded, and E6000 fumes can’t be good for you either. Use a respirator with the correct filter. A dust mask won’t protect against chemical fumes. Cut Proof Gloves - If you are prone to cutting yourself, these can be helpful. http://www.amazon.com/NoCry-Cut-Resistant-Gloves-Performance/dp/B00IVM1TKO Supplies Blue painters tape - Great for taping parts together for test fitting. Also good to hold parts from shifting during the clamping process. E6000 takes a while to set, and parts can slide while they are clamped. Rare Earth Magnets - For clamping areas that can’t be reached with regular clamps Line 24 Snaps - If you are doing the snap plate method (recommended), you should get a 50 pack. Snap setting tools - These range from very cheap to very expensive. Cheapest route is setter and anvil. http://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Factory-24-Snap-Setter/dp/B003A728X2 http://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Factory-Rivet-Anvil/dp/B003A9I9ZQ Straps/Elastic/Buckets/Strap Hardware - strapworks.com Sandpaper - Various grits. For finishing of cut edges and roughing up plastic for gluing. Sanding blocks, belt sander - Useful for smoothing out parts that should be straight. Can glue piece of sandpaper to scrap boards. Plastic cutting scraps - Keep this for making ABS sludge, doing repairs, etc. It is color matched to your kit. Extra ABS - For making snap plates or shims. ————— Return Edges Return edges are generally desirable, as it gives the armor the appearance of thickness. All return edges average 1/4 inch(6 mm) but can be up to but not much more than 3/8 inch (9 ish mm). In some places, it should be removed all together, and in some instances can be reduced for comfort. Chest: bottom edge against ab. Sides but taper down as you get closer to shoulders. Minimal to none around neck. Back: bottom against kidney. Sides but taper down as you get closer to shoulders. Minimal around neck. Kidney: top, bottom and slight in kidney notch. None on sides. Butt: all sides Ab: top under chest, lesser return edge around cod area. None on sides Shoulders: none on edge against chest. Return edge against arm. Biceps: minimal to none. Some leave return edge some remove it all together. Forearms: none at wrist opening even up into the square indent ridge. Minimal to none at elbow side. Your choice Thighs: return edge on tops and bottom. Shins: return edge on top. None against boots. For Shorter Troopers Shorter troopers, trimming the following areas is most common however, you can only take off so much before it's no longer 501st acceptable. Do so with care: Forearms - upper or lower sections Biceps - upper or lower sections Thighs - upper section, besides cutting behind the knees Shins - lower section, besides cutting behind the knees Ab - upper return edge section Chest - lower return edge section Back - lower return edge section Kidney - upper and lower return edge section Posterior - upper return edge section

Coming along nicely! A couple comments: • Keep the sniper plate over your thigh. Should not be tucked inside. • Notice a big discrepancy between the color of your armor and the color of your bucket. Do what you can to get them to match. • Looks like there are visible logos/seams on your under suit. Should all be blacked out. • You might want to taper the thighs a bit towards the bottom, especially if you plan to drop weight. It will help with the sniper plate issue too. • Try to white out the elastic on the boots better. • And yes, the thighs should be a bit higher if you can manage it. • It may just be the picture, but your right bicep looks a lot roomier than your left.

That tool won't work. Here are the tools you need. http://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Factory-24-Snap-Setter/dp/B003A728X2 http://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Factory-Rivet-Anvil/dp/B003A9I9ZQ There are better versions, but they cost more: http://www.amazon.com/Hoover-Pres-N-Snap-Tool-Complete-Kit/dp/B008D4F4Y2 http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=239 http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/craftool-hand-press Just make sure whichever version you get is specifically for "Line 24" snaps. Best guess at number of snaps is in the ballpark of 25. Of course, this depends on how you assemble your kit, and what attachment methods you use. Plan on ruining about 20% of your snaps until you perfect your technique. I would get a 50 pack to be on the safe side.

Lots of stuff to address here, but I'll do my best. The short answer is that yes, you can follow his tutorial to the letter and probably be fine. But first, a couple disclaimers: • Ukswrath is building his kit to a level of accuracy that is even beyond Centurion status. That is entirely optional, and that can affect the types of materials you use. This affect how the armor is connected, what type of snaps, straps, brackets, etc. • Each kit needs to be customized for the individual, so one person might need extra plastic for shims etc. that may not be included in this list ------------ • For adhesives, he uses both E6000 and Zap-a-Gap. Those are both fine options. Each has its pros and cons which I went over in the talk. If you only want to use one, go with E6000 as it's safer and more forgiving. Zap a gap has no working time, and can be messy and ruin the finish on your armor if it gets anywhere it's not supposed to. If you do use it, just use it on the inside of your armor and be very careful with it. • For exactly what type, color and length of strapping and elastic you should use, there are too many variables to be able to predict exactly. He makes one big clamshell out of the torso pieces. I prefer to make them into two main parts, and use suspenders. The one-piece is more accurate, but not required for any level of approval. I prefer the second method, but others prefer the first. Use whichever you like. • Pop rivets are useful for some applications. He uses them to redo the way his elastic attaches to his drop boxes. This is optional. • His paint colors are accurate, though the black is just for painting the chin/vocoder on the helmet, which is already painted. • Internal strapping brackets are for uber accuracy, and are not required for basic, EIB or Centurion. • He uses S poppers/tool instead of the more common Line 24 snaps that most people use, again, for uber accuracy. • He uses double cap rivets for the thigh ammo belt. Centurion requires that the rivets have a solid head. You can use pop rivets if you don't care about Centurion, or even split rivets if you prefer. • He uses sew-in snaps for the shoulder to bicep connection. You can use standard line 24 snaps, or any other connection style as long is it is not visible. • Elastic and bra hook calf closure is another Auber-accuracy thing. Not required for any level of approval. You can use his method, or the more common velcro method. • Thigh garter belt: the tutorial link is to a custom made one. You can do that, or use a standard web belt. The tutorial is fine. • Gloves: He is going Centurion, so is using rubber gloves and latex hand plates. This is a centurion requirement. You can use the hand plates that came with the kit, and Nomex flight gloves like I showed in my tutorial if you prefer. I find them more comfortable and color than rubber gloves. • Undersuit. Should be coming from Anovos. No one knows if it's approvable, but it should be. • Waist Belt. He modifies the existing Anovos model. That's fine if you can repair the two extra top holster holes. Or you can make/buy a new, stiffer belt. Hope this helps :-)

OK Mike. Consider yourself RSVP'd.

The location for the Anovos event has been changed due to the large turnout. Please see the ISG calendar or Facebook event for details.

The location for the Anovos event has been changed due to the large turnout. Please see the ISG calendar or Facebook event for details.

The location for the Anovos event has been changed due to the large turnout. Please see the ISG calendar or Facebook event for details.

Welcome! Check out the calendar. Our Anovos tutorial is Feb. 6 in Chula Vista.