Stutz

Contact Kevin at Imperial Surplus. He can get you set up with movie or animated clones. http://www.imperialsurplus.com I have assembled a couple of his kits. They are very well made.

Hey Olivia. Welcome! I'm in Chula Vista as well. Is this a permanent move? If so we encourage you to change your garrison affiliation. You can contact your Tampa GML to get the process started. We also have an armor party coming up on June 24th in Fallbrook where you can meet some of the local troopers.

Hi Michael. I received your photos and replied. Please see your email. Looking forward to having you as a member!

Generally, "acceptable" mean approvable, but not the best. In this case, the costumebase jumpsuit is OK, but there are better options out there (WampaWear for example). I wouldn't worry about color matching on blacks. They are pretty forgiving. The real experts on this costume are on the IOC. Recommending spending more time on there looking through the WIP threads and asking questions. Lots of great info there.

The costume base jumpsuit is acceptable, but the hat and belt are not. The buckle's corners are too rounded, and the hat is not the correct shape (it's cylindrical vs conical) The jackboots are fine. Check out this resource list from the IOC. The Detachment is a great place to get information about your build, so make sure you spend some time on there. http://www.imperialofficer.com/forum/index.php?/topic/1817-ioc-costume-resource-list/#comment-19564

Welcome Sharon!

Sounds good! Make sure to check out all the tutorials on whitearmor.net if you haven't already.

The ridges on the front should be a couple mm wider than the actual cover strips, just like you mentioned. And always make the fronts outsides as much to spec as possible, and use the backs/insides for any adjustments.

There's room for variation, so it's not an exact measurement. You just want it a lot closer to calf height than knee height.

The overall shape, finish and heel height are acceptable, though it is a more modern cut. Removing the zipper in the rear is definitely required. The main issue is that the boot is too tall, and possibly flares too much. Though the flaring could just be because the boot shaft is flattened out in the photo. At the very least, the boot would need to be cut down to actual jack boot height. Here's a comparison of these boots vs identically sized jack boots:

What Adriel said.

Erik, Here is an outline of the costume submission process. Let me know if you have any questions.

Welcome Christina! The Officer/Crewman costumes are a good place to start. There's lots of great info on the detachment forum.

Welcome! And FYI, we haven't been a squad for a couple years now. We're a full-fledged Garrison!

Thanks Joe! Your costume is in review. Looking forward to having you as a member!

Welcome Kate! In case you haven't seen them, here is where you can find the costume standards (CRLs) for the Visas Marr costumes. http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FlagshipEclipse_CRL

Nice! Hyperfirms are great to troop with.

Here is the checklist for submitting a new costume for approval: PRE-REQUISITES • You must be 18 years or older. • You must live in San Diego or Imperial County. • Your costume should be 100% complete and accurate to the CRLs. I cannot approve incomplete costumes. SUBMIT YOUR APPLICATION • Submit your application for membership at http://www.501st.com/members/join_form.php Make sure you choose “Imperial Sands Garrison” (some folks choose Southern California Garrison by mistake). EMAIL YOUR COSTUME PHOTOS AND INFO • Please send all submissions to gml.imperialsands@gmail.com • Identify which costume you are applying for and include a link the the CRL. For example, not simply Stormtrooper, but Stormtrooper ANH Stunt, ANH Hero, ESB, ROTJ, etc. • Email your submission pics of you in your costume to your GML at gml.imperialsands@gmail.com. • Include your TKID (if you are already a member) • Include the name of the costume you are submitting (e.g. not just "Stormtrooper", but "Stormtrooper ANH Stunt") • Costume photos must be of you alone against a plain, neutral, contrasting background (no convention photos, please). • The basic photo set consists of front, back and both sides, including side views with your arms up, all 4 sides of the helmet, an "action shot", and a front-facing "bucket off" shot (if applicable) so we can see your face. • Also include detail photos of your costume parts. The specific shot will vary by costume, so just use your best judgement. Your photos will be compared against the CRL for your costume, so if a detail is called out in the CRL, I need to be able to CLEARLY see that detail in your photos. The CRLs can be found here: http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:CRL • If you are submitting 3D printed parts, you must supply detail photos to show that there are no visible 3D print lines. • Photos must be full length (don't crop off your feet or head). • Be sure to take your photos with adequate, even lighting. They generally come out better outdoors, with the flash off. • Make sure your photos are in focus, and high enough resolution to inspect the details. If I cannot make out all the details clearly, I will request that they be reshot. • Photos cannot be retouched or photoshopped (other than for correcting exposure). • Do not wear any non-canon accessories or add ons, including jewelry, eyeglasses, earrings, unit patches, stickers, etc. • If an accessory (force pike, blaster, com-link, pack, etc.) is presented as part of membership application photos, it must adhere to the CRL of the costume you are submitting, and have detailed photos included. • Please list the maker of the armor/helmet/uniform/jumpsuit/blaster if you have that information. It will help the approval process go much faster. • If you have a build thread on one of our Detachment websites, please provide a link. • When you provide your photos, please provide them in a single zip file for ease of downloading if possible. Links are fine as well, as long as it includes the ability to download the entire album at once. HOW LONG DOES AN APPROVAL TAKE The better your submission, the faster I can complete your approval. Be aware that approvals can take as long as a few weeks (or as short as a few days), as it depends on how many costumes are ahead of you in the queue, the complexity of your costume, the quality of your build, the quality of your photos, my workload, and whether I have to reach out to detachment leadership for clarification. Note that once I approve your costume, the Legion needs to approve your application and assign your TK number, making you a member. This may also take a couple days to a week. QUESTIONS? If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Please send all questions or submissions to gml.imperialsands@gmail.com Dean Amstutz Garrison Membership Liaison (GML)

Use Novus plastic polish. https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU

Get heavy duty woven elastic from strapworks.com Back that area with another strip of plastic. I would avoid painting, as the color/sheen will never match. Stick with ABS paste, sanding and polishing. Make sure you are using the same plastic as your kit for the ABS paste.

Hey Josh. Yes, full forum access comes after armor approval. Our calendar is viewable by anyone though.

Welcome Josh! Biker Scouts would be the most forgiving for larger troopers, followed by the standard TK (one of the larger kits (AM2.0 would be the best). TFA Trooper or Clones would be less forgiving. We do have a sponsor program. Paul Farquhar (darthpaul73@gmail.com) is in charge of that. Feel free to reach out.

That's a very typical mod if you are having trouble walking. Not a problem at all.

Welcome! We don't have a Phasma yet in our Garrison, so you would be the first (assuming you are in our territory). Make sure you head over to FISD to check out some tutorials on Phasma. We don't have published standards (CRLs) for that costume yet, but they are in progress. Here's a good place to start: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32972-ladyinwhite-phasma-build/

I personally find that one small 5v fan is plenty. Sometimes I even turn that off. Maybe that's why I don't need any hearing assist :-) I use ROM/FX for mine. Most people use the Aker/iComm combination, or just the Aker if they don't care about static burst. Wireless is cool, but more potential points of failure. I like to keep it simple with a wired setup.