JO,
Unfortunately we had to abandon the self made pleated under tunic. My wife is skilled with sewing, but due to a spinal cord injury, she physically couldn't do the pleats any further(too much bending of her back) . So I did go with the Xcoser pleated undertunic, but this is what we have modified, which should get me to Level 2
1. Removed collar. (collar comes from mid coat)
2. Detached the sleeves, added zippers and sewed to an Underarmor shirt. (It was very tight in armpit area so I'm waiting on more pleated material to extend range of motion)
3. Piped the armholes, side seams skirt and open front edges of skirts
4. Waxing with Otter Wax (not required per the CRLs, but it makes it more screen accurate)
From what I have read from Dawn Bright, who wrote the CRL, the only piece of the Xcoser KR costume that is approvable, is the under tunic. Granted that could be, "as-is" or "out of the box", but maybe with modification they could work. Like you said, "Outer Robe: XCoser, zipper in front not well hidden, as it should only be a seam not zipper I think. May order one from HJO to match hood etc. or make one."
You're correct, there should NOT be a zipper down the front. Per the CRL, there is only a zipper on the wearer's left side, so you have to rip out that zipper and add to the left side at bare minimum.
Based on Dawn's suggestions and the many that I've seen, Saint's Customs is probably the best maker out there right now, followed by HJO. If you can't make the mid or outer coats, I'd go with one of those.
Hope this helps,
Marcus